The Winter is close and I really don’t want to meet it up in the mountains. After a few days in Santiago I head to the “Paso de los Libertados”, known as one of the 25 most deadly roads in the world. In fact at one switchbacks I had a mishap.
Driving behind a truck in low speed for quite some time I got read to overtake just coming out of the switchback. The machine leans easy into the bend. I hit the gas and … nothing. Instead of accelerating I slow down and I cannot get the machine up again. It takes a few moments when I realize that I’m sliding on the side protector. No idea what happened…I didn’t feel the slip off at all. Whatever was the reason, it must have been very smooth. Some truck drivers run to me to help me. First they run then they slide…and then I see what is going on: The whole track is covered by oil. No one has enough grip to stand still. Together we pull the motorcycle to the other side of the road and get it up. With a little more respect I drive the remaining 300 km (180 miles) of the pass which provides amazing views into the mountain range.
The upcoming winter is easily forgotten when I reach Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina. It’s not only warm it’s really hot here. For sure I have to test if Mendoza is Argentina’s wine capital for a good reason… And yes, it passed the test(s).
The next day I get on the Ruta 40, which is the Argentinian version of the Route 66. It offers on its 5.300 km (3,300 miles) along the Andes a huge variety of landscapes and also a huge variety of different road surfaces. Mostly it’s asphalt in good condition but there’s also gravel, dirt and sand. Sand…my all time favorite, especially when you hit it on a slope, ideally a bit wet and to make it “perfect”: it must be dark night. At least it’s a good training to drive concentrated and these situations aren’t often at all. Usually you could enjoy the ride most of the time as theRuta 40 is not that frequented.
Next stop is the camp ground in Mallargüe, where I see another adventure bik. For sure I put my tent on the space besides of it as there’s nothing to fear from other travelers. The adventure bike belongs to Nicki and Moe from Germany. Lucky them as they have far more time to travel than I do. Go and check out their page: www.moppedhiker.de
After exchanging some hints I hit the road again but the next police control close to the city will be a far longer stop than thought. You can find these police control stations regularly usually close to towns. So far no officer stopped me but this time they want to see all documents including the Aduana, which is the temporary registration of the motorcycle in the visited country. You get it when crossing the border, so no big deal…if the paper which you get from the Aduana officer is a real Aduana. For the very first time, I didn’t get the real Aduana the day before but a worthless paper plus the officer didn’t enter the details in the database. Time to see a police station from the inside. About an hour later I can get back on the road again direction Patagonia. This area was one of my big dreams to visit on my own for years now. Around Bariloche the amazing scenery starts with fascinating mountains, deep blue lakes, vast meadows and huge forests in continuously changing sunlight.
What a misery I don’t have time for stopping every now and then to put on my hiking boots and climb one of the uncountable mountains. Generally it seems you could travel for years through Argentina or even through Patagonia without seeing one spot twice…this country is just so huge and beautiful.
That I travel in the Southamerican autumn happened just according my plan for the whole year. It’s not high season for sure. Only a few tourists, pretty cool and always the risk of snow, which gets me a bit later. But there are upsides to this season: As already mentioned there aren’t many tourists, which I prefer especially traveling through a countryside but more relevant: Autumn in Patagonia is incredible beautiful with all its different colors…just like Indian Summer in North America.
In El Calafate I go directly to the Perito Moreno Nationalpark to visit the famous glacier which grows into Lake Argentino.
The following 900 km (560 miles) are affected by bad weather. The first time on this stage for several days in a row when I was on the bike. It started with dense fog, turned into rain and ended as a massive storm. The storm was that strong that the ferries to Tierra del Fuego didn’t go any more. Stranded at the ferry terminal in the night, I had to wait until next morning. Luckily Marcelo a truck driver offers me to sleep in his warm, water and wind proof cab. The next morning everything is calm as there was never a storm. The sun is shining and everything seems nice. Which is true except the temperature fell a lot. From now on I will wear everything what I took with me. Oncoming truck drivers warn me that there’s snow and ice on the road.
For sure nothing what I want to hear but also nothing what could stop me now…the snow must be that high that going through is impossible. I’m just too close to the destination. Finally it was not too bad. Only a few miles with different variations of frozen water on the road, which slowed me down but couldn’t stop me. The cold on its own was more difficult to fight. Although I was wearing everything I had with me, I had to stop regularly and dance on the roadside to get warm again. The wet cold air just takes out the warmth out of your body so easily. Whatsoever…an adventure isn’t defined to be easy…and finally there it was: Ushuaia! The most southern city of the world or also called “End of the world”! I danced when I reached it…but not because I was cold.
The next day I drive to the “End of all roads” and I take a boat to small islands and see some sea lions.
When I was standing there viewing the snow covered mountains I remembered one motorcycle traveler who told me that I can easily drop Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego from my list as it is more than ordinary. I really cannot second that. Besides of that special place, the scenery is really beautiful.
I fell so much in love that I really want to stay longer but my flight from Montevideo to Seattle is booked, the way to Montevideo is long and the remaining time is short. So, I say “good bye” to Tierra del Fuego and “hello” to the most boring 3.000 km (1,860miles) I drove so far: Nearly all the time straight forward, flat, sandy only covered with small bushes. For everyone who wants to ride between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia: Mind Ruta 3! Lucky me that the patch of the repaired tire (in Colombia…yeah, long time ago) gets lose and I have to deal now with a flat tire. Another tick in the box: Flat tire, hooray! Didn’t have it so far, neither on this trip nor on my trip around the world. As in the Pampa is exactly nothing to find, for sure no workshop, I need a different solution. Again lucky me that there’s Willi, a truck driver, who saw me the day before when I was dancing on the roadside (still cold, the coldest place was -10°C, about 14°F) and invited me spontaneously for a hot Mate. Now he sees me not dancing but staring at a tire which gets more and more flat and he offers to take me and the bike to the next city where it could be fixed. Amazing! I only miss a few hours of straight forward boringness.
As soon as the tire got fixed I’m back on the motorcycle to ride the last one and a half days to Buenos Aires at least with sun and warm temperatures. Before the adventure ends another challenge has to be taken: Find a place for the Beast. Either store it, with a container back home or sell it. The first two options sound good but do not fit with my roadmap for the remaining year. Storing means to return within three months and take it to another country. And then again and again. Export it with a container doesn’t make it easier as I won’t live in the U.S. any more when it arrives. Selling sounds good as the prices are good in Argentina. The issue is, that the laws limit the business with foreign, used vehicles. Many people who are interested to buy but no one who wants to go the long way through the registration process. Coincidentally I get the contact of Petro, who imports new motorcycles. Although this is a far easier process, he knows the right people and so we come to a good agreement for both of us. Plus he offers me to ride one of his motorcycles when I come back to Argentina for further traveling. That makes the decision even easier.
The Beast was a bike on its own. From the beginning till the end always also a bit of a Diva but she always got me through no matter how bad was the road, no matter how bad was the weather.
When you see an orange BMW R1200GS with some adventure marks, don’t forget to greet: It could be the Beast. And don’t be afraid: She only wants to play.
It’s time to experience Buenos Aires at its best. I get addicted to the old buildings, the history, the different neighborhoods and the omnipresent Tango. Not sure when I will come back but I will.
As my flight departs from Montevideo, Uruguay I take the opportunity to see another city and another country. With a speedy catamaran I’m there quite fast but still too late as it is holiday weekend and the city is nearly completely empty. It seems I have to come back again.
Coincidentally I get in the silent march for the missing of the dictatorship between 1974 and 1983. Impressive experience.
The trip ends with a sunny day and warm temperature which I enjoy in parks and at small coffee shops (European style). I head to the airport where I check all my luggage with my dirty motorcycle suit and my helmet in. Flying back to Seattle is just a fraction of time what I needed to drive down there…but also not even a fraction of fun.
No time to relax as not only my Panamericana Trip came to a successful end but also the adventure “Seattle” is over.