The first snow already fell (and melted) in Seattle but Salt Lake City, where my motorcycle sits and waits, had moderate temperatures so far. Well, it had. Everything turned about two days before I flew in and get my machine back on the road. According to the weather forecast some snow fell and temperatures were low enough to keep the snow on the ground. That’s why I packed my skiing clothes. Nonetheless I was a bit anxious when I flew to SLC and I got welcomed by freezing cold air when I left the plane but luckily I didn’t see any snow or even ice on the streets. Not yet. A blue sky awaits me the next morning when I head out to the storage unit to kiss my Beast awake, which means: I connect the battery and fill up some oil. After storing all my stuff into the panniers or on the bike, I put myself in the warm clothes and hit the road.
As I had no chance to visit the Great Salt Lake when I arrived a few weeks ago, I take a detour to have a view on that great lake. My plan for the first day was to get as fast as possible to the south of Utah with less risk to get stuck in snow. For that I wanted to drive on the Interstate which isn’t a real pleasure on a motorcycle at all. My detour to the Great Salt Lake offered me the option to take smaller roads in parallel to the Interstate. Smaller means not as quick as traveling on the big route but also far less traffic and more relaxed driving. For sure I took this option and enjoyed that first beautiful day close by the snow covered mountains.
As expected I arrived at the camping area of Springdale, UT, at the Zion Nationalpark close to sunset. That was absolutely fine if I only were experienced enough to build up my completely new tent in the dark. I wasn’t. It took me several shots until it looked as it should look like but I finally made it and fall asleep in my new down sleeping bag which I got after I burned my old one on my Alaska stage (see stage 1 report). And this sleeping bag was absolutely the right fit. No matter how warm or even hot it became during the day, the temperature always fell below 32°F (0°C) in the nights on this stage.
A cup of hot coffee helps me out of the warm cosy sleeping bag. The freezing cold of the nights also has an advantage: You don’t have to dry your inner tent or the outside of your sleeping bag before packing. Just brush the ice from them.
What an easy start into a day full of nice experiences. I get the full shot of Nationalparks: Zion Nationalpark, Bryce Canyon, Red Canyon, Glen Canyon, Grand Staircase, Natural Bridges, Valley of Gods, Monument Valley. I’m done. That’s far too much for me in two days. It will take until the end of the stage to get me all the impressions assimilated. Lucky me I wasn’t distracted too often by snow or ice on the streets although I expected them on the small dirt roads in the mountains which Beast and I took when this was the best way to go. But finally I only hit the snow when I was on my way to Bryce Canyon. I was driving on a clean dry asphalt road when suddenly behind a sharp bench the ice started and I had to fight not to fall on the ground.
Again the amazing controllability of the Beast saved the situation and we came to a good stop. As there was no way through until the end, I turned around a little sad not being able to see Bryce Canyon. When I drove my way back I realized that there are also other roads available. Finally I was able to get a glimpse of the Canyon. Not sure if the other view was better, but what I got was already amazing.
On my motorcycle map a small dotted line shows a connection (the Burr Trail) which is just superb to save some time and have an interesting way through the area I want to see. The dotted line indicates that it’s a dirt-road which is fine but as it’s winter time and it’s marked as a low category of a dirt road it’s better to ask locals before getting stuck. The reaction is clear: Don’t even think about it. Especially not with such a big and heavy motorcycle. I could accept this answer by someone who’s familiar with motorcycles but not by people who never drove one. Luckily I meet the Ranger of the area who encourages me to ride on the Burr Trail, as my bike is just perfect for these kind of roads. And he was so right! For sure you have to be careful on the sandy switchbacks not to get of the road as this might end in a bad way but besides of that this is the kind of adventure I love to do…and the Beast, too.
When I arrive in Bullfrog, UT, it’s not really late. Well, late enough to train building up my tent another time in the dark but as it is around 6pm, I’m looking forward to have a great dinner especially as I didn’t have any breakfast nor lunch. Too bad that everything is already closed. Not only the only restaurant but also the only supermarket in the city. The next city is about 50 miles away. At least the night sky is amazing. For the next morning I plan to have a breakfast like I never had before. Unfortunately neither the store nor the restaurant are open. Also the stores in the next city are closed. And the following one. Well, let’s focus on what is available: Great views, nice sceneries and fascinating Nationalparks. That’s not too bad at all. So, I roll down on a dirt road into the Valley of Gods which is incredible. Both: The way down, on which you also should pay quite some attention as it descends quite fast if you leave the right way, and the valley on its own. When I’m closer to the natural statues I get of the bike to make some pictures. Not too surprisingly the Beast is in the center of the exposure, as the goddess of big, heavy motorcycles.
What do I see after passing the Mexican Hat? A small café? And it’s open! A good reason to stop and break my involuntary fasting period of 42 hours.
I need a dessert! But I don’t take anything ordinary but only the best. So my choice for dessert is the Monument Valley. At the spot where Forest Gump stopped his run, I also stopped…but went further as my voyage isn’t by far over yet!
